If there’s one thing that my new career has taught me it’s that there’s a huge difference betweeen being the chef and being the chef / owner. It’s truly night and day. When you ask young chefs and cooks, nine out of 10 will tell you that their dream is to open their own restaurant and I was no different. For the first year of operation I did the books, managed the floor, prepared all the food and attempted a social life. When I look back, I’m amazed that I even made it this far. What pulled me through the abyss? How did I survive, endlessly burning of the candle at both ends? It’s easy, I fell in love with the woman of my dreams.
For the first three years of my career I’d accepted the fact that I was a loner, due to the fact I spend 90% of my time in the kitchen. I figured I would be a great chef and one day in the heat of the moment, die in my kitchen… that would be my bitter end. I wasn’t totally put off by the idea because it was the crazy roller coaster ride that I’d chosen. I learned to live with and accept it. Once I was awarded best new chef in New Orleans and the accolades I’d dreamed of started to pour in, I became crazier and crazier because all my hard work was being recognized. Proclamations of world domination were not uncommon.
Back then the little nightmare of a kitchen that we worked in every night had no ventilation, limited resources and a chain gang of employees with a turnover rate that was startling. Stella had a reputation on the street of being the hardest kitchen in the city to work in and it kind of made me happy, in a sick sort of way. I was going to the top no matter what I had to do to get there. Bottom line, my mentality was insane—which to a certain degree I still am—but something had to give and it didn’t appear it was going to be me.
I remember one evening in particular that started like many before it; I was walking from the kitchen to the bar and all of a sudden there she was, the woman of my dreams. I’ll be honest, marriage was the last thing on my mind as I moved in for the kill that night. I told my bartender to keep her martini full as I sent out course after course, presenting my best hand of seduction. The first evening rocked and rolled, followed with a second only ending with her leaving to go home. I decided she was a muse, bringing me a message that my heart was still alive and somewhere there may be someone made for me.
We managed to find each other again and began a challenging long distance courtship that resulted in relocation. This is where the roller coaster ride got even faster. I was juggling my success, an unstable kitchen staff, and as if that weren’t enough… I had fallen in love. The timing seemed all off but in reality it could not have been more perfect because I’d truly never felt like this before. She taught me how to love other people and for the first time, my bees were getting honey. Now, this didn’t happen overnight because I’m as stubborn as a horse, but at least the transformation had begun and the seed had been planted.
As she became more involved with Stella!, it enabled me to travel for stages in Tokyo. I worked with Masahiko Kobe (whom I befriended while staging in Enoteca Pinchiori, in Florence, Italy) in his restaurant Massa. I immediately fell in love with Japan which was reflected by the “Japanese Invasion” of my menu. Masa introduced me to Iron Chef French, Hiroyuki Sakai, and the next year I found myself training in his kitchen. This led to an introduction to Iron Chef Chinese, Chen Kenichi, and by that time my official staging patterns had starting to take form.

Chen Kenichi
I would have never been able to do any of this without Tanya’s loving set of eyes “holding down the fort” as I moved around. I staged at Morimoto in NYC and Jean Georges in the Trump Tower. It was clear that now things were really moving. Being names “Rising Star Chef” in 2003, along with another life changing event made me hungry to keep this rush going.
We flew Masahiko Kobe to New Orleans and held Stella’s first Iron Chef Dinner, a sold out event that fueled my passion and obsession even more. Two weeks later we closed the restaurant and we were off to the James Beard House. At the time, this experience was one of the most stressful events to ever take place but that didn’t matter because we had just cooked dinner in the world renowned house; crossing another mark off the master list. I returned to Tokyo to try and schedule the dinner of a lifetime by inviting Iron Chef Sakai to come to New Orleans and do another Iron Chef Dinner in our restaurant. He accepted my proposal and it set my soul on fire.

Masahiko Kobe
I returned to New Orleans and decided, for this grand occasion, it was time to renovate our entire restaurant; I wanted to build a dream kitchen for Chef Sakai and me. Keep in mind that this whole project had to be finished in less than a year. We planned rigorously around the clock, creating excitement in the air and the project was rapidly unfolding. We were approaching the magic day when we would finally close our doors and begin the project that everyone was waiting for.

Hiroyuki Sakai
On August 21, 2005, Stella’s doors were closed and our aggressive two month renovation began. It was one of the most invigorating weeks of my life as the crew came to work and started the demolition. Walls came down, jack hammers were pounding, it was clear that we were on a fast-paced mission. Five days later, on a Friday, we were already waiting for a concrete truck to pour our new slab. The contractor told me we were waiting for a truck coming from the West Bank and it may be better to reschedule the pour for Monday since there was a storm in the Gulf of Mexico. I insisted that we stay and at 7:00 PM that evening the slab was poured. I remember going home that evening feeling more powerful than ever, thinking that nothing could stop me. I reclined into my chair on a rare Friday evening off and turned on the television to relax… there she was, Katrina. I thought to myself this can’t be true, becoming very frustrated at what I was looking at. That’s all I needed, some dumb hurricane to delay the pace we had already set.
I tried to deny it was there, continuing with my plans and met with staff in a tentative new restaurant location the next day. We were opening another restaurant concept called Stanley. Putting the hurricane terror out of my mine we all started to instinctively clean the abandoned kitchen. One at a time they all started leaving, evacuating with significant others or friends… suddenly I found myself alone. I was in the highest level of denial I had ever been. Tanya was begging to leave but I insisted we stay, I told her that we would be alright and it was nothing to be scared of. In my pride I wouldn’t leave and insisted that not only Tanya stay, but also my mother and godmother. How selfish could I be? I simply wanted it to go away and vanish. Sunday morning August 28, 2005, I walked into the abandoned streets and felt the air being sucked out of New Orleans. For the first time in my life, I felt the primal animal instinct that it was time to run because terror was approaching. I couldn’t believe that this was happening. It seemed my bubble had burst. We packed our overnight bags and joined the long line of cars leaving the city, not having a clue of the magnitude of what was about to happen.